Uncle George's

There were families milling about the front entrance, but only five minutes went by before we were seated. Our eyes passed over the rows of whole chickens roasting on a rotisserie. My partner remarked on the crowded room and the plain decor, feeling that Uncle George's must be serious about good Greek food.

We were not disappointed. I began with the poikilia, an assortment of popular Greek dips: tzatziki (yogurt cucumber with a nice kick of garlic), taramosalata (carp roe), and skordalia (very garlicky mashed potato). My partner ordered a Greek salad topped with a big white block of feta and scrumptious kalamata olives.

They were out of the smelts so I ordered the baby smelts; tiny flavorful whole fish fried in a light batter. My partner ordered more conservatively but was satisfied with his tender filet of sole. Other fish on the menu include porgy, pink snapper, and red mullet. Our only gripe with Uncle George's is that no coffee is served. But we truly ate enough to say "uncle"!

Uncle George's: 33-19 Broadway, Astoria. (718) 626-0593.